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Lisa Leone, Wyclef Jean and Lauryn Hill, East Harlem, New York City, 1993.Photo: Courtesy of Fotografiska New York and copyright of the Scumbags shirt Furthermore, I will do this artist As the decades pass in the exhibition galleries, shifts in fashion, setting, and photographic style show a culture slowly becoming aware of itself. “In the 1990s, a lot of hyperrealism started to happen. You see these highly retouched images and intricate set designs. Artists are often trying to tell a more complex story, or in some cases, recreate a sense of authenticity that may have been lost,” says Berman. When asked about overarching visual motifs in the canon of hip-hop photography, Jenkins notes trends in body language: “The thing to consider is the attitude. There’s a certain level of pride that comes with owning your identity, and that always translates. You see it in the looks and the poses. People present themselves in a way that is very confident, very aggressive, and very… well, hip-hop!”

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Angela Boatwright, Nicki Minaj, originally photographed for Vibe magazine at Court Square Diner in Queens, NY on May 20, 2008, 2008.Photo: Courtesy of Fotografiska New York and copyright of the Scumbags shirt Furthermore, I will do this artist Although it was the curators’ aim not to “single the women out,” as a viewer, it can be difficult not to pay special attention to those portraits. In them, the gripping stories of women who used artistry and musicality to refute the combined prejudices of racism and misogyny—and in the process, became mouthpieces for people around the world—unfold. While the show offers plenty to marvel at (the potency of Black creativity, the timelessness of hip-hop style, and the wealth of talent in the industry), for music-lovers, the predominant emotion may well be one of gratitude, not only for all of the brilliant music that has already been made, but also for what’s still to come. “Hip-hop’s greatest achievement is representation. It’s a reaction to the lived realities of people of color, who are marginalized in America and around the world. There’s aspiration, there’s hope, there’s trauma, there’s despair,” says Jenkins. “Hip-hop is a reflection of who we are as a people, at any given moment in time.” “Hip-Hop: Conscious, Unconscious” is on view at Fotografiska from January 26 until May 21, 2023.

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